Sunday, 27 November 2011

Good calmers: Revealed, the new wave of anti-ageing formulas that WON'T irritate sensitive skin

By Anjana Gosai
Last updated at 8:56 PM on 27th November 2011
Effective solution: Help is at hand for those with sensitive skin
The seven-and-a-half million women in Britain with sensitive skin know how hard it is to find anti-ageing skincare that doesn’t cause irritation.
Until now, age-defying products have been a no-go zone for them. Rich or potent formulas can contain ingredients (such as collagen-building retinoids, vitamin A derivatives, exfoliating alpha and beta hydroxy acids and fragrance) that can over-stimulate sensitive skin.
However, anti-ageing products designed for mature sensitive skins have hit the High Street.

‘Sensitive skins have a weak and thin barrier, which means irritating substances can penetrate the skin more easily,’ says dermatologist Dr Benedetta Brazzini of The London Medical Centre.
‘If you use a product that the skin can’t tolerate, the cells react by secreting molecules called cytokines, which act to stimulate the inflammation process. This results in redness, itching and burning.’
The new products available come boosted with less irritating yet effective anti-ageing ingredients that focus on strengthening the fragile skin barrier, while building collagen and rejuvenating the complexion.
Here are our pick of the best anti-ageing products for sensitive skin.
Finding a cleanser can be a challenge for those with sensitive skin. This gentle wash contains borage oil to restore the skin’s barrier, lavender oil to soothe, plus soy bean and red clover extracts which mimic the effects of oestrogen in the body to stimulate collagen production.
Traditional exfoliators made with abrasive grains can leave the skin dry and irritated, so Aveeno introduced this mild formula this summer which is infused with smooth microbeads that gently slough away dead cells, while soy extract improves radiance and evens out skin tone.
The area around the eyes is particularly thin and delicate, so should be treated with care, and even more so if your skin is sensitive.
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Cameron Diaz, LeAnn Rimes and Jessica Simpson have all got sensitive skin
This multi-tasking cream tackles crow’s feet, dark circles and loss of firmness with the help of olive polyphenols — naturally occurring molecules in the leaf and fruit of olives which are known for their healing and moisturising properties.
When it comes to tackling deep wrinkles, prescription-strength retinoid creams (such as tretinoin) or lower strength retinol-based products are recommended by dermatologists. However, side-effects include dryness, redness and flaking. This serum is designed to be used under moisturiser and contains a bark extract that mimics prescription retinoids — without the irritation. 
Common pigmentation fading ingredients such as hydro- quinone and azelaic acid lighten discolouration by blocking or inhibiting the production of melanin, but these are known to also cause irritation.
This skin-lightening lotion’s key ingredient is a mushroom-derived enzyme called melanozyme which attacks the melanin on the skin’s surface, allowing the natural production deeper down to continue.
Designed for mature and sensitive skin showing the first signs of sagging, this lightweight blend is filled with organic oils of starflower, and rosehip to plump the complexion, plus arnica and neroli to repair and rejuvenate.
Strengthening the skin’s protective barrier can make sensitive complexions more manageable. This is important for over-40s as the skin barrier is less able to restore itself, leading to dryness and wrinkles.
This moisturiser contains ingredients such as niacinamide and pro-vitamin B5 to repair and strengthen the skin and help it function better. It also addresses a host of common ageing concerns including wrinkles, pigmentation and dullness.
THE skin barrier becomes weaker as we age — it begins to lose water, making it drier.
This face mask in a pot, which has been flying off the shelves, is loaded with manuka honey and avocado oil to hydrate and soothe.
Its star ingredient is purified bee venom, said to encourage the body to react in a similar way as it would if it had been lightly stung, increasing blood flow to the affected area and so stimulating cell renewal and collagen growth.

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